In many places, Aleppo feels alive two weeks after it was overrun by Syria’s now-victorious rebels, marking the start of a campaign that took them all the way to Damascus and brought down the Assad regime. In the Al Sabil district, fruit and vegetable stalls are bursting with fresh produce – ripe bananas, plump strawberries, and bulbous oranges. People throng the streets, and cars sit in traffic jams despite the fuel shortage – on the road to the Turkish border, petrol stations are either out of supplies or charging over a dollar per litre.

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